How to choose the right product for your hair type

There are many different types of products, and with so much variation between brands finding the right ones can be easily overwhelming. The best approach is to seek professional advice – this will ensure you use the right product for your individual needs and can help prevent amassing an entire cabinet of products of that are never used.

However, your hair’s needs may change over time. A basic understanding of the different types of products will be useful when adapting your approach to the different weather circumstances or condition of your hair.

The best way to think about products

The most basic way to think about products is ‘heavy or light’ and ‘moisture or hold’. This makes it easier to identify the right product for your individual needs or hair type.

Heavy or Light – All products will add weight to the hair strand. Sometimes, a heavy product is exactly what your curls need, other times it can over-burden your hair and can result in flat, limp, or straighter curls.

As a general rule, if your aim is to control frizz and maximize curl definition, heavy products are right for you. If your aim is to maximize volume, and keep your curls from dropping for as long as possible, then lighter products are right for you.

Moisture or Hold – While curly products will usually deliver a combination of both, an understanding of this factor will prevent you from unnecessary cocktailing  – a sure-fire way to overburden your hair.

As a general rule, the more moisture in a product or product cocktail, the less hold it will give.

Common types of products

Here are some examples of common products and their typical characteristics.

Foams –  light weight, low to medium hold, low moisture

Mousse –  light to medium weight, medium to high hold, low moisture

Sea Salt sprays (or similar spray-ins) – light to medium weight, medium hold, no moisture

Gels – heavy weight, maximum hold, low moisture

Heavy Curl creams – heavy weight, low hold, high moisture

Light curl creams (leave-ins) – medium weight, very-low hold, high moisture

Oils – light-to-medium weight, no hold, high moisture

Why are some products not considered curl-friendly?

Other curly methods usually include an (often expanding) list of products that are considered bad for curly hair and recommend the complete avoidance of these products. A more balanced approach is to understand why a particular ingredient isn’t recommended, and to then decide if this applies to your individual needs.

There are two main reasons why products/ingredients are considered bad for curls:

The ingredient can dry out curly hair

Products containing certain alchohols and shampoos can dry out the hair strand. This is important to consider as dry curls are often harder to manage and more prone to breakage or split-ends.

However, while these products should be used with caution, if you are seeking more volume often it helps to use products that give your hair a grittier texture.

The ingredient will build-up on the hair strand and prevent proper hydration

Build-up of silicones, oils, waxes etc can prevent water entering into the core of the hairstrand, resulting in brittle, dry curls and a loss of definition.

However, this is usually only an important consideration for people who avoid the use of shampoo.

How and when to apply products

As a general rule, the best results are achieved by applying products to completely wet hair, raking through to evenly distribute then scrunching to encourage the curl pattern. Below are some examples of a typical routines, however for detailed advice it is best to consult with your hairdresser.

Coarse, thick curls

1. After rinsing some or all of the conditioner out and completing The Wash, leave your hair completely saturated and dripping wet.

2. Rake (use your fingers in a combing manner) through a curl cream or leave-in.

3. Scrunch (squeeze into a bunch with your hands) a gel into your hair, encouraging your curl pattern. Squeeze out any excess moisture from your ends with the microfiber towel.

Finer Curls

1. After rinsing all of the conditioner out and completing The Wash, use a microfiber towel to squeeze out excess moisture from your ends.

2. Elevate your hair away from your scalp by tilting your head or hanging up-side down.

3. Scrunch (squeeze into a bunch with your hands) a foam into your entire hair, encouraging your curl pattern.